If you at least once in your life worked with chiffon, silk and other very movable fabrics, you will never forget how painfully hard!
When laying out on the tissue of patterns, the choice of their best, compact placement (and, especially if the fitting, combination of the fabric pattern), to comply with the filaments and filaments of the base, when stroking circuits The threads are broken chiffon. This is precisely TA Catastrophic error , which, if it happened and not fixed immediately, at this first stage, will definitely manifest itself in the finished product with unmountable defects: the curves of the skirt, an uneven bottom of the dress or blouses, asymmetric swans, differently planted sleeves and other disadvantages of the appearance of the product .
The complexity of the chiffon crude, the tissue skewing on the very first, most difficult and most important stage of the wearing product, leads to the fact that many tailors, one day suffering from a complex cloth and not receiving a quality product, begin to avoid, refuse such orders.
Of course, the tailors were sought by ways that would help them curb the "highly", beautiful and complex cloth!
The first thing that comes to mind when a person is faced with such a problem - to sash something on the table anything from distortion or stabilize the fabric itself, to force it to be smoothly, without displacement. And in essence - change its properties on the whole process emitting items to Eliminate this unpleasant feature - the mobility of the tissue threads, their skew. Then the finished thing can be finished, laundering, crawling from the stabilizing agent.
What did I find on the Internet?
1. The fabric is splashing with hair varnish.
2. Soak in a weak gelatin solution. (I found a recipe: 3 teaspoons gelatin on 1 cup of cold water, insist for 30 minutes. Heat on fire, but do not boil. Dilute with 3 liters of cold water in a basin. Table, leave, leave on an hour, then squeeze slightly and dry.)
3. Machion chiffon in water and thick tissue. Lay out on a flat surface, dried and ... etc.
After all manipulations, the cloth has already been lured completely different on their plastic properties.
Do you like these techniques? I have no! If the use of varnish does not change so much cloth, then gelatin and soap is very strong! And the worst thing is to add another problem. How to decompose or hang cloth for drying to prevent the thread skew?
So how is it easy and just to cut the chiffon? At all at all, without changing its properties, you can make an extremely accurate cut? And already on the fitting to see such a landing, such an appearance of the fabric, what it will look in the finished form, is the same gentle, soft and plastic?
Immediately I will say that my secret concerns only cut! Duplicate, lein, brake, ironing - all these subsequent stages remain complex, time-consuming, requiring great accuracy and respect for tissue.
First of all, you need a large cutting table on which you would be able to decompose the fabric completely, rotten. I have two folding tables set up to each other with long sides and linoleum-covered linoleum. The total size of the resulting table is 160 cm for 180 cm.
To add mobility, the wheels are screwed to the legs. When I want, for example, to move the table, then I just rolling it to another place and just as easily and just return to the former.
Pay attention to the drawing of the linoleum! It is his very important, the necessary feature for Croy!
Square side is 25 cm. It is extremely convenient! I can not measure the fabric, but simply putting on the table, see what is the width and length. Easily find the line of cut at an angle of 45 degrees. I can, laying out a set of product patterns, calculate how much fabric will need for tailoring things.
So, you have passed the cloth, laid it on the table, leveled on all the 4rd sides, focusing on straight lines and corners of the drawing of linoleum. Now you need to consolidate the material in this position!
The secret of light cut is that you are just Lock the edges of chiffon with painting ribbon , neatly imposing it from above so that approximately 1 cm tape visited the fabric.
Just please do not use Scotch!
I confess that I started these experiments with him! It holds the fabric, of course, canceled, but after dugout on the linoleum, traces of glue remain, which can be removed only with acetone. We will not torment Linoleum acetone, since it turned out that the painting tape copes perfectly with the fixation of the fabric!
And now, without changing the properties of the fabric, you have complete freedom of action! You can choose how much you like to select patterns, trying several options, adjust the drawing, if you have a cage, strip, ornament, circulating out the contours of the pattern (chalk, soap, pencil, felt-tip pen - what is more suitable for you?) And all this is perfectly accurately, without jambs! Fabric, then it remains fixed!
By the way, if your table is less than the size than the flap of the fabric, count, on which the size of the rectangles you need to cut the chiffon (pulling the tissue threads to designate the cut line), and already on these flap fixed with ribbon, you can upload patterns.
Of course, always better Cry all the fabrics Spirit! This is the most accurate, economical and correct cutting method. In all cases, not only when the pattern is required, cells, strips, or lifting an asymmetrical product! And no sinks do not need to lay!
Circling chiffon is needed only by proven pattern , All pattern adjustments to do before cutting! Also need Immediately draw all the necessary details For the product, since the curvilinear intercourse of the fabric flaps is impossible to use. Do more stagnation of combination And those details that will need to continue to duplicate (weld, cuffs, collar, collar stand), place close to the straight corner of the fabric, leaving it as a reference point for the further definition of ironing board and duplication.
I did not try to duplicate immediately, on the cutting table ... Probably, Linoleum will endure such a tough effect on him ... but I feel sorry for it!
I remember this feeling of indescribable delight when I glued the edges of the fabric to the table and realized that everything was fixed reliably! You can even make a stroke with chalk, and not only a water-soluble marker. (Challenges with its hard particles clings a thin fabric, and a felt-tip pen without pressure, even barely touching, gives a good line. But if you cut a black chiffon - the felt-tip pen will not fit, only soap or chalk.)
But every time the chiffon is cut out for several hours, for the whole evening!
Pressing the cloth with the hand so that it moves as little as possible, folding the "checkmark" (photo only for the reception's demonstration) so that there is an edge of the pattern between the index and middle fingers, diverted the contours of the parts, after each small stroke, the tissue breakdown appeared!
And here it is a solution to the problem! Here it is - my victory!
I share this, I will not be afraid to say a beautiful idea, with you, my friends, to remove your fear of a complex cloth, so as not to refuse to work with her, afraid to spoil the gentle and beautiful material. And just to speed up the sewing process, save time - the most valuable and irreplaceable our resource.
Here are some photos of the sewing process itself:
- For the correct, accurate alignment of the sides of the molds, a slotted cloth fix the machine needle and, slightly pulling, fit;
- the finest natural silk before the loop rinse to strengthen the slice of the adhesive water-soluble stabilizer (it is impossible to freeze the loop without it if you use a special paw);
And so I align the bottom of chiffon dresses from the store, which I sometimes bring my clients. As practice has shown, putting the scissors to the desired height and moving them around the skirt, you can perfectly align the hem of dresses. It turns out much more accurate than by rearring the line, make marks the desired height of the fabric!
In order not to crawl on the knees on the floor, I put a mannequin or the customer in the dress on the table.
But the products that I spent before how began to apply a method for fixing chiffon on the table before revealing.
My most complicated, the most memorable dress from chiffon. It is double, on a lining made of the same fabric. The complexity is that the chiffon is finely corrugated, which makes it more difficult to crude and sewing the process, especially along the neckline, where the foundations are also held at an angle!
This is also a double dress, also on a lining from chiffon.
Brown chiffon blouse, stitched to a lace skirt.
Small video for three and a half minutes on the topic of publication:
Joyful to you creativity, inspiration and high-quality products!
With love and respect, Lyubov Commissioner.
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