My old table lamp under the green lampshade has long lost its glass hats. Buy new lampshade turned out to be problematic. That - whether the standard was previously another, then the fashion went to such lamps, nomaded from one film about Lenin to another, but I didn't need to find a flort on sale size and form. So, in fact, the idea appeared to make the lampshade itself in the trendy now the style of "Tiffany" from stained glass.
The production of stained glass windows at home is hampered by the absence of a costly machine for processing glass, and perhaps the initial high cost of the most stained glass.
Next, I will tell you how to make an original plander for a lamp without cutting, fitting, grinding glass ...
For work, you will need ready glass - Cabochons. Cabochon is a way of processing a glass or stone product, when the bottom side is flat, and the external convex, smooth. Usually rounded shape. For sale such glass in the departments for decorating products. There are different colors, with inclusions, with a pearl coating, transparent and colorless. Diameter from 10 to 25mm.
We will fasten them with the help of soldering by tin-lead soldier according to the technology for the first time by Lewis Tiffany in 1885. Such Tiffany techniques are as follows: the glass winds are edged with copper foil, they are finished and soldered among themselves.
Copper foil - folia is sold in rolls of 30 meters and there are different widths: from 3 to 15 mm. We are suitable for a 5-6mm wide folia. The inner side of the folia is covered with a layer of adhesive substance and protected by thin paper.
Separating the protective film, the adhesive side to the glass, you need to carefully wrap the cabochon in the end, breaking the ends of the foil by 3-5mm.
Tightly clipped with a foil with your fingers and smooth out the formed folds with a wooden wand.
Then the foil must be irradiated, i.e. Create tin Cart firmly holding inside cabochon.
As a flux, it is better to use modern gels for soldering. They are less toxic for humans and easily washed off with water. Solder should be with a high content of tin, as more durable. The fact is that, in contrast to the usual stained glass, we will discourage glass not throughout the perimeter, but only at certain points of contact of the parts, which requires increased mechanical strength.
Before you to master the prepared cabochons in the product, you need to at least imagine that you should get in the end. If, of course, you do not act on the principle: what happens. By the way, the abstraction of stained glass looks also quite well. Then everyone will see something in it :)
For my lamp, I chose such a color:
The first two rows of green color - symbolize the grass. The lower row is darker to then hide the regular fastening of the ceiling.
Then "five-petal inflorescences" of yellow, red, cream, blue colors on green "blooms".
Between "flowers" and above - azurevy color - the sky or air.
The abundance of a light background may be not the best for the selection of "colors", I also used for practical purposes - to maximize the light of the lamp itself. It will carry the function not only to the desk lamp, but also as duty lighting in long winter evenings.
To save electricity, acquired a special economical light bulb with a capacity of 18Vatt. It shines as a 75Vatite lamp with an incandescent thread and is almost not heated.
Next, how to make a form-template under the size of the lampshar ...
Connect the glass with a friend, giving the finished product the necessary form, agree, without some reason, the support is not a simple thing.
The old lamp lamp lamp had a rounded shape, in my opinion the only admissible lamp for this design. Approximately the same form has the upper part of the usual balloon. I used it for cooking template.
Inflatable the ball, to a diameter of a little longer lower base of the fastening of the lampshar, placed it in a plastic bucket for fixing.
The method of papier-mache got a durable cardboard cast. In this case, I did not use crumbled paper, but glued the surface with pieces of old newspapers, layer behind the layer.
The last layer made from white paper to give an aesthetic look :)
After drying, it remains to pull out everything from the bucket and pull the ball.
Next, we make a carnisik on which our future masterpiece will be initially held.
The form is ready. You can start to the soldering ... I did not put any markings, I picked up the cabochons along the way.
It is advisable to perform at least half of the work at a time, and better all :)
Then you will have the opportunity to remove the product from the base without the threat of faults and wash off the flux residues. Flux left on the solder for a long time, starts corroding the surface.
It is even important to accurately suck all the joints and on the inner surface of the ceiling. Without this operation, you will not achieve the necessary mechanical strength of the product.
Also, on the inside, solder the copper wire to give additional stiffness and fastening to the fittings of the lamp.
Over time, under the influence of the environment, the brilliant tin will sweep. Give the initial gloss can be washed with lampshade with a cleaning agent for metal. You can immediately cover all soldering with a solution for toning - patina. Patina is sold in the form of a finished solution. If there is no possibility or desire to buy a patina, then you can graze all the tinted parts with a saturated solution of copper sulfate, rinse, dry and polish felt to copper glitter. What is also very beautiful.
Well, finally what happened to me ...
