Today, my master class is dedicated to "dentures".
I share my way that is not the only right, but rather, one of the options. This method I applied for fixed open grazing, for mobile mouth, I would most likely made anyway. Nevertheless, I hope this way can come in handy to someone. Perhaps she will push to search for your own option.
For the modeling of dental "prostheses" I used plastic, which turned out to be at hand. You can use other projected or self-aligning plastics. For self-arcing oven, accordingly, it will not be needed.
You will need materials:
Stack for modeling (optimally puppet metal depicted in photo 1).
The wire is thin (I used a thickness of 0.5 mm).
Plastic Baked (I used Fimo Soft, which was at hand. You can fimo classic, cernit or other).
The glue is resistant (I used the moment the classic is universal).
Glue wand (suitable manicure for wooden cuticles).
X / B thread (I used №10).
Needle from doll sewing and soft toys.
Normal sewing needle.
Thread for sewing (I used 45L).
Acrylic paints (I used white and with a yellow tint).
Acrylic varnish (you can both matte and glossy).
Artistic brush synthetics (approximately number 5-6).
Small cloths (pliers with a narrowed nose).
Scissors.
Home furnace - oven.
Step 1
Important! Before modeling, it is necessary to thoroughly flush in the hands of plastic to the state of the drig. If plastic breaks, it means poorly washed, or it is old, which will certainly affect the work.
Step 2.
Measure the length of the wire according to the size of the mouth. Two pieces: for top and for lower jaws separately. The length of the wire is equal to the length of the alleged dental "prosthesis" on 2. fold the wire halve and twice, not leaving the loop at the end. It is convenient to do with the usat.
Step 3.
Watch the twisted segments of the wire thread hb so that the thread tail remains at the beginning of the winding. It went from one end to the other and back, returning to the tail of the thread. Both tails of the threads tied together to keep the thread, not slipped. The thread wound on the wire is needed for reliable adhesion of plastic with a frame.
Step 4.
Two small balls for the upper and lower "prosthesis" prepared from the industrial plastic.
Step 5.
Enter plastic Prepared wire frame. It is necessary to rub the plastic in the thread wound up to the grip, while the plastic starts sticking to the threads and with difficult to slow. Form first "sausage". Then make it flat, not too thin.
Step 6.
The stack is cutting the fang about the middle of the strip relative to the horizon. Between the fangs from their base, cut off the extra plastic (by horizon). You have half a strip between fangs.
Step 7-8
On the segment between the fangs, scratch strips (imitation of teeth). They can be punished with a neat stack, smoothed cuts. The tails "prosthesis" form a transverse pressure not too thin.
Step 9.
In the tails "Proven" on both ends, pierce the needle hole. Cut the "prosthesis" under the "mining" bend desired for the bear.
Step 10.
Ready "prostheses". Put bake in the oven at 110-130 degrees for 30 minutes (for FIMO, CERNIT). After baking are equipped at room temperature. And it is better to give to stand at least 1 hour.
Step 11.
Colon the "prostheses" with a thin layer of acrylic paints to give them more natural, natural shades. After drying the paint, apply the finishing layer - acrylic varnish. Give dry.
Step 12.
Print the "Protane", infecting glue on its base, to the lower jaw. And for reliable fastening, they also sew the tails of the "prosthesis" by the superproof thread in the color of the "prosthesis".
Step 13-15
Sevive the language to the lower jaw secret seam. In the photo - the finished result.
Step 16.
After the glue is captured finally, trying on pin and sew the bottom jaw with superproof threads to the face of the bears.
Shared MK - Gemma Kaj.
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