Today the ball is a secret zipper zipper. But ordinary lightning is still needed, it is better to turn it into a product in cases where fabric is embossed or with a protruding pattern or decor.
For example, if it is a rare loose letter, volumetric lace, tissue with woven fibers, whose ends stick over the surface of the fabric. All this will be clinging a secret zipper, because it is sewn close to the tooths.
In these cases, we cover the usual zipper open or closed way. I will make a series of master classes about different ways of taking simple lightning.
Today we will patch the lightning in the skirt under the belt. This method is called "Lightning in a fold". I have preserved the silk skirt of the 90s, which participated in the show on the podium in the Burda's trading house on the cannon. So earlier it was sewn into all the products, because the secret lightning was not yet. Please note that lightning in this skirt is longer than usual because of the big difference between the waist and hips. Otherwise, the skirt is not to wear.
I show zipching on a small sample and on smooth fabric so that lines are visible.
You will need:
- the cloth- Zipper-zipper with a length of 18-22cm. Remember, the more the difference between the waist and hips, the longer the lightning.- Portnovsky pins
- needle and threads for sewing
- Portnovsky scissors
- Stripe Canttenband - 0.5 m
Step 1. Select the right zipper
It can be both plastic and metal, it will not be visible, but the cloves of the metal clasp zipper in this case should be small and narrow!
First, in the usual zipper zipper, the cloves from the same side as the lock, unlike the secret.
Secondly, a stopper must be on a zipper, which fixes the lock in one place and does not allow lightning to spontaneously open in the sock. This is especially true for fitting skirts pencils.
Thirdly, the zipper lock should not be wide!
The stopper is triangles on the bottom of the lock, they get up when lowering the lock in lightning links and fix it in place.
Step 2.
Welting a zipper from the bottom side, not for kart! Synthetic - dry iron, cotton - with steam. All zippers give a small shrinkage when ironing. Do not neglect this operation, otherwise, after ironing the finished sewage zipper on the fabric, especially shiny and smooth, ripples along the zipper or zipper zipper can appear.
Step 3.
To pump a zipper in a fold, there should be at least 2 cm! It is important.
Loose or tensile fabrics need to be strengthened. To do this, along the markup of the suture of the lightning allowance, we glue the canttenband strips or any thin adhesive. For dense and flaky fabrics, this step can be skipped.
Step 4.
Place a zipper on the seam strictly under a metal limiter, otherwise it can get under the needle.
Sleep the seam under the zipper.
After the fitting, turn on the type of seam below the zipper, the allowances to spend separately.
Step 5.
Running the allowance below the zipper is smooth, and under the zipper-zipper left allowance with a small influx to the right - up to 1 mm.
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT!
This influx will block the zipper of the zipper, it will be invisible in the finished product.Step 6.
Remove the backbar in the seam, it can be seen in the photo that from the front side the left edge of the cut slightly overlaps the right.
Bend the left edge of the cut from the front side of the skirt, under the right edge of the incision to put a zipper clasp. The folding of the fabric should be close to the cloth shutters. Stop the right edge of zipper by 1 mm from the edge of the cut.
Step 7.
Put a paw to induce zipper so that the needle is in the extreme left position from the paw.
Cut the right edge of clasp-zipper by 1 mm from the fold with the lines at the beginning and at the end of the seam. You can not open the zipper, the lock does not interfere with us.
That's what should happen.
Step 8.
Lower the left edge of the cut to the left edge of the cut so that it overlaps the line to 1mm. Pull the left edge on top of the line.
Step 9.
From the wrongness of the skirts to start the second half of the zipper closer to the lock, at the bottom under the metal limiter to make the transverse stitch so that when shooting from the face, not to get to it.
Step 10.
From the front side to post down the flat line of the SECRET.
Rearrange the laood for lightning so that the needle is in the extreme right position from the paw.
Unbutton zipper! Otherwise, the lock will be interfered with a smooth line.
Make a line on the markup to about the middle of the zipper.
Lower the needle cars into the fabric, raise the paw and gently fasten the zipper!
Continue the line already with a closed zipper exactly on the markup. At the end of the zipper of the zipper make a cross-leaf or at right angles, or the painter, who like it.
That's what we did. Zipper zipper is hidden in a fold, the lock is not visible.
The view of the unbutton zipper and insidious. With an inside the transverse line below the metal zipper metal limiter.
With this treatment of zipper, the top of the skirt is treated with a belt.
In the next workshop, I will show how to enter this zipper so that the top is to handle the lifting. Such processing is more often used in dresses.
A source