Ibizwa ngokuthi "ithuluzi lokulingwa," futhi lilungile - lihlomile, kusho kuyingozi.
"Ingozi" negama layo uqobo, elivela eFrance "Décolleté", okungukuthi, "ngentamo enqunyiwe." Kepha awukwazi ukwesaba - kuzoqhubeka kuphela ngentambo, ukusika, kwesinye isikhathi imvunulo yowesifazane.
Kodwa-ke, "Kungani nje"? Unendaba yakhe kanye nokuziphatha kwawo. Omunye umhlukumeza othile uyavuma othile, othile ukhetha izingubo ezivaliwe, othile ulungele ukunyala emugqeni wokuhlonishwa ... ngegama, ukusikwa, ukuvula ngandlela thile, eklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - kuklanyelwe ukuheha ukunakwa - mane Untekenteke okufanayo, kanjani kanye nezindawo ezivuleka.
Round and Square, "Isikebhe" ne- "Inhliziyo", i-Asymmetric, ukuvula ihlombe elilodwa, elinesizotha futhi ngesibindi ... Ngabe ucabanga ukuthi i-neckline yakho ayikho kuwe? Noma, ngokuphambene, gqoka izingubo ezijabule ngokuhlotshiswe ngentambo ejulile (noma cha)? Kunoma ikuphi, asibona owokuqala hhayi owokugcina.
Isiketi eside, amahlombe avaliwe kanye ne-spin, futhi ... esifubeni esinqunu ngokuphelele.
Kodwa-ke, "unkulunkulukazi onezinyoka", njengoba lesi sithombe sibizwa ngokuthi - ngemuva kwakho konke, unkulunkulukazi, hhayi umuntu wesifazane ojwayelekile, ngakho-ke awukwazi ukuphetha ngokuthi wonke amaqhinga abucayi eminyakeni eyizinkulungwane ezintathu edlule wakhuphuka ngendlela efanayo.
Kepha sidluliswa ngesikhathi lapho ubunqunu bukade bubhekwe njengento engafanele, kodwa, eqinisweni, kwaqhamuka intambo, ivumela okungenani kancane, kodwa ukuncoma ukuthi ukufihla izicubu eziminyene.
Ngakho-ke, iminyaka ye-XV, lapho abenzi bezomthetho be-mod beyi-duchy ecebe kakhulu yeBurgundy.
Egcekeni le-burgundy, igceke le-burgundy lifaka izigqoko nge-v-intamo, zijule impela, kepha zihloniphekile, ngoba ingubo ephansi ibibonakala ngaphansi kwayo futhi ihembe lalibonakala ngaphansi kwalo. Futhi, noma kunjalo, uBurgundy omuhle wanquma ukuvula intamo nesifuba, esinesisa sakhe esiqhathaniswa ne-velvet esindayo, indwangu, amasilika aminyene noboya.
Abazange banciphise ngemuva kwabo nesiNtaliyane - kuyiqiniso, amamuphu awo ekuqaleni ayeyindilinga, futhi amvumbulela kakhulu emuva, esikhundleni samabele. Kodwa-ke, bayenga amandla okubonisa izicubu zikanokusho ezigqoke izingubo eziphansi egagaye elijulile.
Futhi intandokazi edumile yenkosi yaseFrance uCharles VII, u-Ansn Soror, owayebhekwa njengobuhle bokuqala, ethandwa ukunethezeka nokushisekela okujulile kungabi ngaphansi kukamama amthandayo, u-Isabella Bavarian. U-Anise wasebenza njengemodeli yeMadonna, ebhalwe ngumdwebi wezinkantolo - futhi ngendlela efanayo, enebele elilodwa elivulekile, kuboniswa kwesinye isithombe, elibhalwe ngemuva kokushona kwakhe. Kuze kube manje, uma kukhulunywa ngentambo enesibindi, anya ...
Ikhulu le-XVI yinkathi yokusikeka okubanzi okungunxande okungaphumi imfashini kuyo yonke le minyaka yonke.
French Fokazi, Englishwomen, i-Italian ekhombisa ngokuziqhenya kubo ngesikhumba esimnene, kwesinye isikhathi ecashe ngemuva, ngokuphelele noma ngokwengxenye, ukufakwa okuhle kakhulu. Yebo, uDeloollete onesizotha angambozwa ngehembe eliminyene elingaphezulu, kanye nokwehluka phakathi kwengubo enemibala nendwangu emhlophe yeqhwa nakho bekusebenza kakhulu.
Intamo ingamboza ikholaji, ngakho-ke intambo yabonakala ikhona futhi ayikho ngasikhathi sinye.
Futhi kungenzeka ukugqoka ingubo ngokujwayelekile ngaphandle kwentambo.
Hhayi-ke, hhayi konke okufanayo kwakulingana nokwejwayelekile, ngokwesibonelo, amakhethini aseVenetist anokunethezeka, imithetho ebeka nje ukuthwala isifuba ngokugcwele ...
Kodwa-ke, kwakumangalisa ukwenza hhayi kuphela amakhethini.
Ku- "Masks" (imisebenzi yaseshashalazini kanye nomdanso) eNgilandi yaqala amantombazane wekhulu le-XVII adansa izingubo ezinesibindi, hhayi nje kuphela ngaphandle kokujwayelekile, kodwa futhi neNevelies Delight.
Kanye neNdlovukazi, kanye namantombazane akhe asenkantolo, babamba iqhaza kulobuhle, batholwe kuma-cutout ajulile ngesikwele njengoba benganqumi ukuvula izigqoko zabo zakusihlwa manje.
Futhi intambo ejulile yejacket efekethisiwe efekethisiwe yangezelelwa ngama-lace collars, okugcizelele ngokwengeziwe esifubeni esiboniswe cishe ngokuphelele.
Nansi imidwebo kaGerieta-Maria, inkosazana yaseFrance, eyaba yiNdlovukazi yaseNgilandi futhi olahlekelwe ngumlingani wakhe ku-scaffold. Kepha ngaphambi kwemvume yesiNgisi eminye iminyaka embalwa, ngakho-ke ngenkathi iNdlovukazi ithokozela impilo futhi ithwala izingubo zikanokusho.
I-excline yesikwele esijulile, noma kunjalo, hhayi nje imingcele yekhola ebanzi yentambo; Kumbozwe futhi nge-FINT gesi shock, eboshwe emthanjeni uqobo, ngisho nangaphezulu komgexo weparele. Ubuhle obufihliwe ... yize ubamba iqhaza "kumaski", indlovukazi yavuma ngokwengeziwe.
Ngasikhathi sinye ngemfashini nakwamanye ama-exholles - ukusikeka okubanzi okuphezulu okuvulela isifuba kuphela, kodwa futhi kuyingxenye yamahlombe nangemuva. Mhlawumbe, kungashiwo ukuthi lokhu kungenye yezimo ezinhle kakhulu ze-cutout, femune nenhle, zivuleke kakhulu futhi azikubi kakhulu - okuningi kakhulu ukuze zincome ubuhle bemigqa, futhi ngokwanele ngasikhathi sinye sizokucabanga futhi sigcine ukuhlonishwa.
Lobuhle bungambozwa ngethangi, futhi kungenzeka ukuthi buyisuse phansi, baphendukela kuhlobo oluthile, olugcizelele ngokwengeziwe nqunu. Ukwamukelwa okunjalo kuzoguqulwa kamuva.
Ekupheleni kwekhulu le-XVII, ama-cutouts anxande "Kare" - Intambo evulwe kuphela ingxenye yesifuba, ishiya amahlombe avale. Lokho kujule, bese kuncane futhi isikwele, khona-ke ngamakona aqondile, bese uyizungezela, la magama acishe abe yikhulu lonke le-XVIII antshontshiwe amantombazane, edala ukugcwala kobuso kanye ne-bost ebukekayo. Futhi umgexo ombozwe ngokuqinile noma ama-frill avela ku-velvet, i-satin kanye ne-lace kugcizelele ngokwengeziwe ukunethezeka kokusikiwe, isikwele noma ukusindiswa.
Kodwa-ke, labo, ngenxa yeminyaka, izinhlinzeko noma ukuthobeka, bengafuni ukuheha ukunakwa kule ndawo, kwamboza ngentambo noma nge-fishe ".
Kuliqiniso, uma ufisa, la mabhuleki, njengoba sekushiwo, akwazanga ukumboza kangako ngentambo, kungakunaka kangakanani - okufihliwe ngemuva kwamafolda wendwangu, kwesinye isikhathi okusobala?
Ukunethezeka, kepha izingubo ezisindayo zale pore zizothatha indawo yezingubo zomoya we-amplir - okhalweni ogcwele, ziwela kahle, futhi zivela kulokhu, njengobuhle, ubuhle bomzimba wabesifazane.
Intambo yentambo iyahlukahluka ngohlobo lwe- "Kare" ebanzi, kwesinye isikhathi lahlanganiswa enkabeni ukuze kwakhiwe "inhliziyo", i-oval, ukuvula amahlombe nesifuba.
Lapho okhalweni libuyela endaweni yakhe, futhi iziketi zizophinda zibe ngcono, umugqa wentambo, uvule ngokuphelele amahlombe, zihlangane nemikhono enkulu, zizokwenza kahle okhalweni hhayi nje kulungile, kepha zincane kakhulu.
UNatalia Nikolaevna (Yebo, kunjalo, "okungukuthi" iGoncharov, bese esunduza, khona-ke iLanskaya) iboniswa egqoke leveli yakhe edume ukuxubhana kukaBrillov - ubuhle obuhle baleyo nkathi.
Yize - kungani kuphela lokho? I-oval yobuso kanye nezimpawu zamahlombe ezinamathiselwe entanjeni ejulile yengubo, akunakwenzeka ukuthi ungathandi manje ...
Ikhulu le-XIX liyakuvuma kancane kancane umthetho oqinile - kusukela ezinhlobonhlobo zamantombazane amantombazane (futhi kwakukhona abaningi - izingubo ekuseni nesikhathi sasemini, ukuhamba, amabhola, njll.) Kuphela amabhloho ama-cutouts.
Okunye kunesizotha, mhlawumbe kuvaliwe.
Kepha uma ngentambo yehlaya ...
Yikuphi ngo-1850 ophazanyiswe nguJen Carlisle, umlingani womlobi weScotland, owaya ebholeni? Lokho azoba "zinqunu - futhi lokhu kusemncane wami, ngemuva kweminyaka eminingi kangaka ezingutsheni ezivaliwe"! UJen ngaleso sikhathi wawusevele uneminyaka engamashumi amane nesishiyagalolunye, intokazi evuthiwe kakhulu futhi ngokwezindinganiso zamanje, kepha imfashini ifuna ...
"Ngakho-ke, ngathola ingubo emhlophe ye-silk - ekuqaleni wayenama-cutout amancane nemikhono emide - futhi ngosuku lwebhola athunyelwa ekuguqukeni ukuze anciphise okungaphezulu futhi akwenza lokho, lapho ngibeka, Ngicishe ngachitha - kepha lapho ukukhanya kwamakhandlela, ngangibukeka ngathi, kwathi lapho ngingena emakamelweni agcwele izintokazi ezinqunu, ngazizwa ngisezokuphepha lapho sengikhohliwe masinyane ngezandla nangentambo. "
Ngakho-ke kubhala umfazi okhulile, impilo yakhe yonke egqoke izingubo ezinesizotha, futhi ihlotshiswe emhlangeni kuphela ngeholide.
Amantombazane amancane asanda kuqala ukuphuma aye ezweni futhi, kumele azizwe engafanele.
Khumbula ibhola lokuqala leNatasha Rostova?
"Intamo yakhe engenalutho nezandla zayo zazincane futhi zimbi ngokuqhathanisa namahlombe kaHelen. Amahlombe akhe ayengebumncane, isifuba asiqinisekile, izandla zaba mncane; Umzimba, futhi uNatasha wabonakala entombazane, okokuqala ngqa egula futhi okuzoba ngamahloni kakhulu, uma bekungeke kuqinisekisile ukuthi kwakudingeka. "
I-heroine yenoveli ephathelene "nabesifazane abancane", abayiqoqa ebholeni: "Le ngubo yayinentambo ejulile, ebheka esikweni, meg, owayengajwayele entanjeni evulekile, eshaye phansi amahloni. "
Kuyiqiniso, akubona bonke abantu ababenamahloni. UNikolai Vasilyevich Gogol enkondlweni ethi "Imiphefumulo efile" kwakuyizo "zintokazi zomuzi ka-n" ebholeni, bajabule ukudiliza imfashini yokugcina yeSt.
"Konke kwasungulwa futhi kwazilungiselela ubuhlakani obukhulu; amahlombe, amahlombe ayesekudla kakhulu njengoba ayedinga, futhi kungabe ngamunye; ngasinye esidalula impahla yakhe aze azizwe ekuqinisekisweni kwakhe; Ngabe konke bekutshalwe ngokunambitheka okungajwayelekile: noma itayiphu ethile emnene, noma isikhafu kube lula kwikhekhe, owaziwa ngaphansi kwegama elithi "ukwanga", empeleni lavale intamo, noma likhishwe ngaphansi kwezingubo, ezincane Izindonga ezithambile ezivela emncane, ezaziwa ngegama elithi "ukuthobeka". Lezi "isizotha" zazifihlwe ukuba ngaphambi nangemva kwalokho akusekho okubangelwa ukushona komuntu, futhi lapho kuphoqelelwa ukuthi kukhona okufile kakhulu .. . "
Kepha kungenzeka yini ukuthi ungawazise lezi kanye nama-swan swan, amahlombe anciphise amancane, aphakamise ama-corsets aqinile ekunciphisweni kwezingubo zekhulu le-XIX? ..
Isikhathi eside sadlula lapho isimo sokusika sichazwa ngemfashini kuphela. Manje usungakhetha kahle ukuthi yini okufanele ubhekane nayo.
Kungani ikwenze nhlobo? Ungenza ngaphandle kwentambo ...
Kepha uma ubheka izici zokwakheka kanye nefomu lobuso, lapho-ke ungalungisa amaphutha.
Umgexo obanzi, odonsela ukunaka phezulu komzimba, uzosiza ukulinganisa isithombe ngokuhambisana nokugibela "okubanzi kanye" phansi "okubanzi.
Amahlombe agcwele nokugcwala? Khumbula ubuhle bekhulu le-XVIII bese ukhetha ukusikwa kwesikwele - wonke umuntu uzothatha amaphutha futhi azowathanda kahle kakhulu.
Intamo ende ende noma amahlombe abanzi kakhulu alungisa ukusikwa eFomu v noma u-U (Nokho, izinhlamvu ezintofontofo ukuchaza i-neckline?).
I-Demollet efanayo ekwakhekeni, okujulile nje futhi kujule kakhulu, kungahle nokucasha, futhi kugcizeke, futhi ...
Ngamafuphi, ukukhetha kungokwakho. Ekugcineni, kuyathakazelisa ukuzama konke!
Unomcimbi onesizotha, futhi uyaziqhenya ngesibalo sakho? Khetha i-neckline, uvula amahlombe akho, futhi uzicabange ubuhle be-pushkin pore. Izinwele zikhishwe zibe yizinwele ezibushelelezi, amakhambi amahle athumeke ngamacici anjalo - egqoke izingubo ezinjalo ungazizwa sengathi unesi-evgenris waseFrance evgenia, isishayamthetho sesikhathi sakhe, maphakathi ekuqaleni kwekhulu leminyaka.
Futhi amakhulu eminyaka ayeke, avumele amaCanosen of ubuhle ashintshe, kepha ngubani futhi nini awenqabe ukuncoma umugqa omuhle wentambo? Ungangabazi.
Kuliqiniso, bathi, INkosi yaseFrance uLouis XIII, yaqamba igama elithi "ihlazo", wake wanawa iwayini elenakele ngqo emhlathini wezintokazi, ngenxa yokungahloniphi "kwakhe" kodwa ake ulandele isibonelo sakhe!
Umthombo