Noma yimuphi umkhuba wemfashini uhlala uyimpendulo. ngokwenzekayo emhlabeni. Ngakho-ke, njengamanje, ngemuva kokukhula ekwakheni ukusetshenziswa nokukhiqizwa, inzalo emisebenzini ye-patchwork, noma ukuthunga kwe-patchwork, ekwakhiweni kwezingubo. Siyaqonda ukuthi ixhunyiwe kanjani.
Kungani konke kuqale
Umlando awubiki izinsuku eziqondile, Lapho kuvela ukuthunga kwe-patchwork, Kepha kungacatshangwa ukuthi le ndlela ifana neyakudala njengoba izisolo. Esikhathini sezobuchwepheshe, izindwangu zazibaluleke kakhulu kakhulu kunalokho: ukukhiqizwa kwayo bekusebenza kanzima, futhi ukuhambisa kwezinye izindawo kuya kwezinye izifunda - isikhathi eside nokwanele. Ngakho-ke, ukusetshenziswa kocezu ngalunye lwendwangu kwakungokwemvelo. Ukusebenziseka okujwayelekile kwale ndlela kuyachaza ukuthi kungani ama-patchwork ekhona ezingxenyeni ezihlukene zomhlaba - noma ngabe bekungukujula kweRussia, lapho bazama ukufaka khona izingcezu ezincane zezingubo zakwaNassengengeus emnothweni ukuze I-clamp yafika nabafuduki abavela ezweni lakudala futhi bakhulela sonke isiko labalimele bendawo. Kuyaphawuleka ukuthi kulezi zingxenye zamafulethi amaka kude wendwangu asetshenziselwa ukwenziwa kwezinto zasendlini, njengezinyawo ezidumile zaseMelika noma ama-ruskwork matwork; Ngenkathi eseJapan, inqubo yeBoro, esetshenziswa ezingxenyeni ezimpofu kakhulu zabantu, isebenze ngokubuyiselwa futhi yakha izinto zokugqoka.
I-patchwork ibuyela kanjani kwimfashini ngenxa yemikhiqizo yasendaweni
Ukuthandwa okukhulayo kwemisebenzi yama-patchworks namuhla kungenxa yokuthambekela kokukhiqizwa kokuziphatha okuhle, kanye nentshisekelo kochwepheshe be-pristine Manual benza izingubo zibe "zingokoqobo." Izinhlobo eziningi zendawo, ikakhulukazi labo abakhiqiza izinto zabo ngokulinganisa okuncane, izindawo zokungcebeleka ezizosetshenziswa Izinto zevintage noma imikhiqizo yesandla sesibili (Sibe nesihloko ngalesi sihloko), esiphukile, sisebenza kahle futhi sisebenza ukwenza izinto ezintsha. Futhi lapho indwangu iye kancane, lapho ingavamile futhi ikhethekile, etholakala esifubeni sikagogo noma emakethe yezimbali, kufanele isetshenziswe njengokuzwela ngangokunokwenzeka. Futhi lapha umbono wenhlanganisela yezinto zokwakha usebenza kahle: kusuka izingcezwana zezindwangu ezahlukahlukene, njengasemklameni, ungaqoqa okukodwa noma ngandlela thile, kodwa, hhayi izinto ezifanayo.
Ukuhlolwa kokuqala kweKsenia Schneider ngokusetshenziswa okusetshenzisiwe kwe-DHENENIM kwakubukeka njengo-Omager Martin Marthele, futhi owasebenza kakhulu nge-Second-Pand: Kuyena kwakungukuphikiswa kwaleyomfashini "efanele" yaleyo minyaka ebizayo. Kepha ngemuva kwalokho ama-mosac wezingcezwana ze-denim eluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka neziluhlaza okwesibhakabhaka, ukubhala ngesandla kanye nefilosofi yefilosofi esekelwe ekusetshenzisweni kwezinto ezisetshenziswa kabusha. Eqoqweni lakamuva le-capsule, hhayi izingcezu ze-jean kuphela eziqoqiwe; Ukusuka ekhefini kakotini elimhlophe, kufaka phakathi okuhlanganiswe kahle, amahembe nezingubo. Ngomsebenzi weSchneider nethimba lakhe bakhumbula ukusebenzisana kwakamuva kwe-Scandinavia ectoriepeed Ganni Label ngohlobo lukaLevi. Izinto ezivela kulomugqa, okwakunqunywa ukuthi angathengisi, aqashe, enziwe ngezingcezu ezahlukene ze-denim.
Ukuxhumana kwemikhiqizo emikhulu enemikhiqizo ye-niche kusho ukuthi izimiso zobuhle nokuziphatha kwalezi zitolo zizothola umphakathi kakhulu - okwenzekayo manje. Okulandelayo ukubambisana kweGanni kanye neLevi kumemezele umthengisi we-matchesfashion kanye ne-SSōne London Brand (esikhundleni sokutshala kwakhe isihlahla nge-oda ngalinye elithunyelwe). Ukwakha iqoqo kusuka ezimbonisweni zesibili - lapho kukhona ihembe elimangalisayo lejeziswe nge-swees ebambene ngezandla, kanye ne-jeans enhle nge-pop-bias nge-pop-bias - i-ssōne eheha indwangu yenhlangano engenzi nzuzo, ukuqeqesha abesifazane abangasebenzi.
Ukubuyekezwa kwe-Brand Rave kusuka eStockholm, eyasungulwa ngo-2017 josephine bergquist kanye ne-Libya Schyuk futhi sekunesikhathi sokungena ohlwini lwama-semiitinals womklomelo ohlonishwayo we-LVMH, ekuqaleni kususelwa emcabangweni wokusebenzisa izinto ezisetshenziswayo. "Sisebenzisana nezinkampani ezihlela izingubo nezindwangu zethu - Abaklami abavunyelwe kwesinye sezingxoxo zabo. - Inqubo yokuqamba imvamisa iqala ngezinto zokwakha, sidweba ugqozi ezimakethe zezinto ezisetshenzisiwe nasezitolo zakudala. " Futhi leli iphuzu elibalulekile elithinta ukuthuthukiswa kwe-DEATS Design Now: Abaklami bendawo abaningi bathathwa njengelungile ukusebenza ngezinto zokwakha ezikhona futhi balungise imibono yabo kubo, kunokuba bakha izingubo zabo kusuka ekuqaleni. Ngendlela efanayo, ogogo bethu abakhulu basebenza - i-loskutka eqoqwe yaphakamisa umbono we-ornament noma into ekhonkolo.
I-American Emily Bode ilandisa ngokuningiliziwe engxoxweni yakhe, lapho kukhiqiza khona izinto zokuqoqa amaqoqo: ukuhamba, ezimakethe ze-FLEA nokuxhumana okuqondile nabanikazi bezincebo ze-Textile balele ezifubeni kuya emashumini eminyaka. "Ngithanda ukulalela indaba yendwangu ngayinye noma ama-antique atholakele," - Uthi. Uhlobo lwe-bode lwaziwa ngokoko konke ngenxa yamajakethi namahembe okwenziwe ngentengo elungiselelwe yaseMelika ye-patchwork, futhi lokhu kwenzeka lapho ama-patchwork ebukeka edlula futhi ethokozisayo. Emsebenzini, kukhona okusobala nokuhlonipha umsebenzi wamakhosi angaziwa, kanye nesifiso sokugcina lokho okwenziwe ngokucophelela iminyaka eminingi edlule, futhi ukuncoma imidwebo kanye nothando lwangempela lwe Izindwangu, izingubo, ubuciko.
UNectari Kuun wakhulela eGrisi, endaweni yokudala kanye nokuxhumana okusondelene nesiko lakhe; Njengoba ethweswe iziqu emkhakheni wokwakheka kwezingubo, wavula isitolo sevintage. Yilelo naleli qiniso le-biography yalo lichaza ama-aesthetics eRianna + Nina Brand, asekelwe kumngane wakhe uNina Kneutt eBerlin. Ngaphezu kwezingubo ezibizayo zesilika ezinemidwebo yobuhlanga ekhanyayo, bane-of-of-bond (eng. "Okuwukuphela komuntu ngokwakho". - Approx.) Imikhiqizo ethungwe kusuka ezicucu zezicubu zomvini, kufaka phakathi ukusebenzisa umfebi we-vintage . Ukuqoqa iphalethi le-patwork ye-patchwork, kuyadingeka kubuciko obuhle - futhi inababhali bamaqoqo. Hhayi kudala kangako, i-vogue.com yakhuluma ngomklami we-American of Nigerian umsuka Sarah Nsikak. Ngo-2014, waqala ukudala izingubo ezisebenzisa imfucuza yendwangu, futhi ekugcineni konyaka owedlule wethula ilebula yaseLa Réunion, ebizwa ngeMadagascar. Ugqozi lokudalwa kwezingubo kwakukhona abesifazane abavela eHeroro Tribe, cishe bacishe babhujiswa ngezimpi zamakoloni. Njengoba sisindile kulezi zimpi, uHeroo wajwayela futhi wagqoka izigqoko ze-pattact ngesitayela, abacindezeli esasigqokayo, - esibonakaliso sabavukeli. "Kimi, ukugqoka kwabo bekulokhu kuwuphawu lokuqina nokukhuthazela okumangalisayo," - Ubeke amazwana ku-nsikak.
Kungani ama-patchwork ethandwa kakhulu ngesikhathi sokuhlukaniswa
Intshisekelo ekubonisweni ngokusobala yaphila ngesikhathi sokuphiliswa kwemikhawulo kabhubhane: umuntu ohlezi ekhaya, wakwazi ukuthokozisa okusha, futhi othile, ngaphandle kokuthola izitolo ngezicubu, waqala ukuthunga kulokho obekukhona esitokisini. Kungaleso sikhathi lapho i-DIDJIGR-gloss-gloss yaqala ukubhala ngoCharlotte Rose Kirkham, umdwebi onokwakheka kwezibalo eLondon, eyaziwa ngaphansi kwelebula rua Carlota. UCharlotte unikeza impilo yesibili yezinto ezisetshenzisiwe ezisetshenzisiwe, uzinqume ezingxenyeni ezithile futhi aqoqe kabusha ukungena ngaphakathi, esebenzisa imicu yokuqhathanisa ukubopha. Ngamunye wale mikhiqizo engajwayelekile yenzelwe ukuzalwa kukaJesu ngakho-ke okuhlukile; Kunobuhlakani obumsulwa, noma kunjalo, okunempumelelo yezentengiselwano. Imingcele evaliwe, ukuqedwa kwemibukiso kanye nemali engenayo ye-Textile Excerless Ukuphoqa Abaklami abaningi ukuthi babuyekeze ubudlelwano nezicubu: Uma kungekho kungenzeka ukuthi uhambe, bheka okuthile okusha, kufaka phakathi izinsalela eziphezulu ezikhona, kufaka phakathi izinsalela nokunquma.Njengoba ukuthambekela kusekelwa imikhiqizo emikhulu
Kodwa-ke, inkampani eyakhelwe mayelana nezindwangu izindwangu zivame ukuzibonakalisa ngokusemthethweni: Ukumbumbuluzwa kwama-patchwork ngendlela yendwangu ephrintiwe ephrintiwe Kusetshenziswe ngokugcwele ngawo-1970s, nango-1990s, futhi ezinsukwini zethu kusebenza njengezinsuku eziningi zezothando zaseBohemian ezinjengoChloé noma eTro. Kulonyaka, amaqoqo entwasahlobo kaCeline, iKoche, ama-Missoni, ama-vetement, uLoowe, uMarc Jacobs, uGucci akhishwe kabi ngezibonelo ze-patchwork - noma ukulingiswa kwakhe, njengoba abaqambi bazi kahle ukuthi bangazizwa kanjani, ngoba la maqoqo zadalwa ngaphambi kwe-candemic vacuum, nangaphambi kokugqekeza kwamanje ezintweni ezisetshenzisiwe. Izingubo ezihlangabezana nomkhuba kubuchwepheshe be-patchwork zisemaqoqweni akhona ekwindla eMarine Serre, uChristopher Kane, u-Alexander McQueen (omunye umkhiqizo, owenze igama ekuphefumulweni kwamagugu omlando kanye ukusetshenziswa kwezinto zokwakha ama-vintage). Kepha kude nayo yonke imikhiqizo ekhiqiza izingubo ezinokulinganiswa okujwayelekile Sebenzisa i-patchwork njengendlela yokugcina izinsalela zezindwangu ezisele ngemuva kokusika noma okufakwa ezindaweni zokugcina. Kubakhi abaningi, kusewukwamukelwa nje kokuhlobisa, futhi kwaphinde kwangena emfashini.
