Shirt, being exclusively male clothing, today has become an integral part of the female wardrobe. The women's shirt is perfectly combined with jeans, skirts, vests, trenches and coats.
White shirt refreshes and looks elegant. She never comes out of fashion. Along with a small black dress, a classic female shirt has the status of a cult thing.
Ideally, she repeats the men's shirt and looks a little more in size, which gives the brittleness to its owner. They sew a female shirt, as a rule, without pullouts, but options are possible: it can be more tight, with extracts or reliefs, from batted, cotton of good quality or silk. If you sew a female shirt with your own hands from the fabric into a cage, a cowboy shirt will be obtained, from a cloth with a large floral pattern - Hawaiian.
What are the main details inherent in a shirt?
This is a postponed collar on the rack, a plank, a lowered prugm, the winding seams, double coquette and sleeves with cuffs and cuts, as in a men's shirt. But in the women's shirt, the plank can already be or wider than standard (for a male shirt it is 3 cm), collars and cuffs are not so hard, buttons can already be with two holes (it is believed that buttons are used in men's shirts only with four holes for sewing) . Also in women's shirts instead of the octopic, conventional seams treated with overlock and without stopping can be.In order not to repeat and teach you something new, in the master class "how to sew a female shirt" changed the processing of some nodes.As a basis for which the women's shirt will be saved with their own hands, we take the pattern of the model 120 from Burda 10/2016:
Blouse-shirt bully blouse shirt with lowered prures, as if borrowed from male wardrobe, give the necessary share of ease of ease to any image.
With my 38 sizes, I took a pattern on the size less - 36 rr. The shirt model turned out to be quite voluminous, especially in the shoulder belt. It doesn't matter what pattern to take, all shirts are in general equally.
You will need:
Torn tissue - 1.5 m with a width of 140 cm;Fliselin - 30 cm;
Buttons - 10 pcs.;
Portnovsky scissors (buy in the Burda store);
Oblique bay for finishing;
Threads and needle for sewing;
Portnovo pins (buy in the Burda store);
Tracing (buy in the Burda store);
Pencil or marker marking (buy in the Burda store);
Line (buy in the Burda store)
Step 1. Preparation of the female shirt pattern
I had to shorten the pattern in length.
Since the bottom shirt is figure, I laid the transverse fold on the pattern above the bottom line so as not to change it.
The sleeve is shortening in the middle of the sleeves, again in order not to change the line of bottom with marking, because the bottom of the sleeve is calculated under the length of the cuff.
Often the magazine gives a private plank. I, when it is possible, replacing it on a one-piece, it greatly simplifies its processing.
To do this, the paper part of the bar must be glued to the shelf parts and add one more width to get a double bar (bar with two socuatons). The second sland bar replaces the adhesive gasket, which, again, simplifies the work.
Step 2. COLLECTION
We cut the details of the shirt with the same allowance for all sections of 1.5 cm.
IMPORTANT! The planks are cut without letters.
There are many small details in the shirt that strengthen the adhesive, so it is better to first place the location of these parts on the fabric, then cut this piece of fabric and strengthen it with adhesive. But then all small details from the jammed fabric. So work is accelerated, and the cut is obtained more accurate.In a female shirt, it is necessary to strengthen the thin glue all the pair details of the rack, collar and cuffs along with the allowances.
For these purposes, adhesive G785, as well as Flizelin H180 and their analogues are perfectly suitable. Duplicating material should be thin and plastic, unlike a male shirt.Then, on the adhesive, mark all the allowances on small parts.Step 3. Processing Planks
The planks are treated primarily after cutting, even before the first fitting, because they do not affect the fitting of the product.
To do this, it is necessary to split or bend on the pattern paper bar and an iron, not chopping the pattern, twice the barn to the wrong shelf first on one part, then flip the shelves and start the bar on another part. Planks put together on a shelf.
Then the planks are touched on a shelf of 1mm from the bend (to the edge) and place aquamarker and buttons on them. It is necessary for fitting. The loops go along the plank and in the middle of it.
Do not forget that on the patterns in the magazine markup loops given to the smallest size! Consider this when removing the pattern.
Step 4.
Lay a fold on the back and shoot it on the allowance. It will fix it. Get the shirt for the first fitting. For her, it is enough to notice only one detail of the coquette. The second coquette is sewn after fitting. Take the shirt, fit it on the figure.
Step 5. Processing of the coquette
In order to sew the second coquetka, it will have to dismiss the mark on the sides after fitting.
Shirt on the table face upstairs.
Retail on the coquette tube detail of the back.
Retail on the coquette details of the shelves.
On top of the face down, impose a second coquetka and leaf with the bottom coquette. The twisted parts of the shelves and the back remains inside, between the coquettes.
Start the details of the coquette. Cut the allowances up to 5-7 mm.
Remove the coquettes, the details of the shelves and the back to stretch out through the neck.
Room seams are coquette. Shot them from the front of the shirt, if necessary according to the model.
Step 6. Processing collar
The details of the collar lay face to face, to be stuck and stagger on the markup. Put in the corners to 1 mm from the line and cut to 5 mm.
Punches of the collar trust on the block.
Remove the collar, root without transient Cant and stop the edge.
On one detail of the rack cut down the lower point.
Observe the thick bottom cut. To do this, oblique beyk from the finishing fabric (I have this tongue silk) impose and tumble on the bottom cut of the rack by 5-6 mm from the edge.
Wrap the cut of the rack of the baker and sink it.
Magate the line exactly in the suture of the contamination of the beaks (immediately under the oblique baker), grabbing the second sliced from the inside.
Shaul a rack without beaks face to the bottom collar. Align the sections, the middle, check the symmetry of the ends of the rack, folding the collar with an attachment rack in half.
From the side of the upper collar, impose an edged face down.
Start racks, grabbing collar between them. Punches in roundings cut to 1 mm, on the rest of the sections up to 7 mm.
Remove racks, root without adapter.
IMPORTANT! Weeping or collar, or a rack separately so that the collar does not lose form.
Upon top rack, draw the line of contraction of the collar.
Step 7. Topping Collar
Post the middle of the rack and the middle of the collar. In addition to the collar in the neck with the front of the shirt, combining the middle, the ends of the collar and the planks, also labels on the shoulder seams. Turn the collar in the neck, laying the line exactly along the lined line.
Emission of the seam in the ends of the collar to carve, fought the allowance to the rack.
Fully the second rack over the seam so to block the line.
It is necessary to occupy a rack so that the mark is on the one side along the edge of the oblique bay, and on the other hand in the seam of the collar. In the corners of the collar pins it is better to leave for better fixation of the rack.
Mow the line exactly to the edge of the beaks. Finally restned the rack.
Step 8. Processing of figured nose shirt
You can handle the bottom of the shirt to the classic way, having turned twice the allowances and rinse them. But I have the bottom of the shelves significantly shorter the back of the back, so it is better to be processed separately from the shelves and backs.
Fold two shelves, check the symmetry of the nose, to cut it in case of irregularities.
Fold the shelves with the back. Where the roundings of Niza are ends, to make 5-7 mm on the allowances. It will be the end of the side seam.
Observe the bottom of the shelves and the back separately with oblique baker (as well as the rack, only you need to be subjected to the second section of the beaks). At the slats the ends of the beaks to adjust inside.
Step 9. Sleeves cuts
Cut the bottom sleeves on the markup.
Observe the oblique bay of the side of the cut, which is closer to the suture of the sleeves.
Make the pattern of the cut bar. The width of the bar in the Call is 4 cm (in the finished form 2 cm).
The length of the strip is 3 cm more than the cut length. The top of the bar can be made as a corner and direct.
Carry out a 1 cm allowance planks.
Fold the planks along in half, check the upper corner on the markup (3 cm above the cut).
Power supply in the corners and cut up to 5 mm. At the end of the line, make an eye on the allowance.
Remove strips, root. According to the collapse of the slap to the height of the cut pave the finishing line.
With the front side of the sleeve, impose and tap the bar on the second side of the cut. Inspect the lines above the line.
Introve the allowance to the strip, the second fold of the bar pouring over the suture of the contraction.
Plank spool over the cut and touched on the cut along the edge and top corner.
That's what happened.
Step 10. Switching sleeves
On the front side of the sleeve to remove the cabbage in the width of 5-6 mm and they come down.
I can put a sleeve in the premium so that the breakage of the armor did not play the bending of the sleeve.
Turn the sleeve in the armor of 6-7 mm from the sleeve bending folding. Important! The line should be at the same distance from the battery bend, otherwise the seam will not be even.
SWA-breaks started on the armor, pour and outtage.
Shot in a break on the armor exactly along the edge of the battery bending.
View of the battered sleeve with a shirt face.
Step 11. Side seams
Folding the side of the side seam and the suture of the sleeve so that one point spoke on the other by 6-7 mm, to be tested and stagged by 6-7 mm from a smaller cut.
You can fold the allowances exactly, but then you have to trim one point. The first way is easier and faster.
Speaking allowed to start the smaller.
Then, the details of the shelf and the backs are decomposed, the batteries are snowing, then gripped on the seam and touched on the details of the sleeves and shelves.
From the front side turned out to be suturing. Combustion seam with two lines from the inside.
Step 12. Cockup processing
On the outer cuffs, they start the battery of the niza to the wrong and tap it 1 cm from the bend.
Fold the details of the cuff face to face and become marked by markup. Punches in roundings cut to 1 mm, the rest - up to 5-6 mm from the line.
Punches are triggered on the block, like a collar. Remove the cuff and rest without adapter. Under the fold of the external detail, delay the cuff feeding line.
Shot down the cuff at the outer edge, starting and ending with the downstream of the bottom transverse line!
Stay folds on the bottom of the sleeve. Facial folds of folds look at the slope of the sleeves.
Attach the cuff into the sleeve from the wrong side! Touch the cuff on the markup. Schu feed cut into the corner at the ends of the cuff.
Shuffle in the cuff. The edge of the cuff is turned on the edge of the sides of the sleeve, overlapping the precipitation line.
Shot down the cuff on the edge of the bend. It turns out that with the front side of the cuff has two parallel finishing lines at the bottom.
Step 13. Loops
Punch loops on the markup, sew buttons. The loops on the bar go in the middle and along the bar, on the rack - along the rack, on the cuff - along the cuff and by 5-7 mm from its short edge. Length loop is equal to the diameter of the button plus 2 mm.
Buttons are sewn on a native leg.
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